At the southern edge of ancient Jerash, beneath the Sanctuary of Zeus and beside the South Gate, a group of low ruins tells one of the city’s most revealing stories. The West Souk began as a roadside market where craftspeople worked and lived beside the road to Philadelphia. After a fire in the late 3rd century, the same ground became a small barracks guarding the newly fortified southern entrance.
Where Is the West Souk?
The West Souk lies at the foot of the Sanctuary of Zeus, on the west side of the ancient road from Gerasa to Philadelphia — modern Amman. It stands just north-west of the South Gate, across the road from the East Souk.
It was a good place to trade: travellers passed the shops on their way into the city, with the sanctuary rising on the higher ground behind.
Historical Context and Origin
The market was built in the 2nd century AD, when at least four shops went up along the road, some partly cut into the bedrock of the slope. Finds from the excavations, including carpenters’ tools, suggest that woodworkers made, repaired and sold their goods here.
Around AD 220 the southernmost shop was turned into an olive-oil press. In the late 3rd century AD a fire, probably during a raid on the city, destroyed the market, and it was never rebuilt.
Architectural Design
The shops opened onto a covered walkway behind a colonnade. Above them were two small but comfortable homes, so the craftspeople lived directly over their work — a practical Roman arrangement. In the oil press, a staircase cut into the bedrock led down from the walkway to the mill and the press.
Rock-cut Workshops
At least four shops, partly cut into the bedrock below the sanctuary, were used by woodworkers — carpenters’ tools were found here.
The Olive-Oil Press
Around AD 220 the southernmost shop was cut deeper into the rock for a crushing mill, with the press set in a large niche.
Homes Above the Shops
Two small dwellings, about 100 m² together, sat above a colonnade that sheltered the shopfronts.
The Barracks Courtyard
In the 4th century the levelled market became a small barracks arranged around a central courtyard.
jerash-west-souk-military-barracks-schematic
Tap the drawing to open it full size.
Open drawingFrom Market to Barracks
In the early 4th century, as Gerasa built its city wall, the ruined market beside the South Gate was levelled. On top of it rose a small barracks around a central courtyard, home to the guards of the gate and the wall. The barracks were altered several times over the following centuries and were probably abandoned in the 7th century.
Visiting the West Souk Today
The ruins are low and easy to miss, so it helps to read them as two places, one on top of the other: first the shops and the oil press cut into the rock, then the courtyard of the barracks. The information board shows the plan and finds from the excavations, including carpenters’ tools, a bronze lamp, jewellery and a marble altar.
Combine it with the South Gate and the East Souk & South Street — together they show how Jerash’s southern entrance changed from a busy commercial approach into a fortified gateway.
