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The largest and most ambitious Umayyad palace in Jordan
The largest and most ambitious of the Umayyad palaces in Jordan. – UNESCO Tentative List
Qasr Al-Mushatta, often called the Winter Palace, is one of the largest and most ambitious Umayyad buildings in Jordan. It lies about 35 km south of Amman, right beside Queen Alia International Airport. A square enclosure of 144 by 144 m, ringed by 25 towers, was meant to hold a caliph’s palace, but it was never finished.
Its south façade was carved with one of the masterpieces of early Islamic art: a zigzag frieze of great rosettes among vines, animals and figures. About three quarters of it was given to Germany in 1903 and is now in Berlin. What stays in Jordan is still extraordinary: the fired-brick throne hall, its re-erected arches and the carved stones of the gate.
Carved stone, fired brick and the arches of a throne hall
Only the central strip of the enclosure was ever built, and even that was left unfinished when al-Walid II was killed in AD 744. What survives shows the scale of his ambition and the skill of craftsmen who drew on Byzantine, Coptic, Syrian and Sasanian art.
01 / 05Vine and acanthus scrolls, rosettes, animals and figures covered the central part of the south façade. The part left in Jordan lets you see the carving up close.
Animals hidden among the scrolls.
Five stops, from the gate to the back wall: the south façade and gateway, the great courtyard, the triple-arched entrance, the throne room and its suites, and the outer walls. Pick a stop to see what to look for.
1 / 8The enclosure has a single gate in the middle of its south wall, flanked by two semi-octagonal towers. On either side, the central part of the façade was carved with a zigzag band forming triangles, each with a large rosette, among vines, acanthus, animals and figures. Most of the carved section is in Berlin, but stones from it remain on site.
Just inside, the gateway block held a small mosque on the east side, with a mihrab in its south wall, and rooms on the west. Its mihrab and carved façade survive.
Sultan Abdülhamid II gave the carved façade to Kaiser Wilhelm II. In 1903 about three quarters of it was cut from the wall and shipped via Beirut to Berlin, where it went on show in 1904 and later in the Pergamonmuseum. A bomb damaged it in the Second World War, and it was restored in the 1950s.
The Pergamonmuseum has been closed for refurbishment since October 2023. Its north wing, with the Mshatta façade, is due to reopen on 4 June 2027.
1 / 6Beyond the gateway, a large open court stretches towards the main building. The enclosure was divided into three strips running north to south, but only the central one was ever built, and even that only partly. The side strips stayed empty.
Pause halfway across and look back at the gate, then ahead to the triple arch. The distance was part of the ceremony: visitors approached the caliph slowly, across open ground.
1 / 6The main building opens with a triple-arched entrance into a three-aisled, columned hall. Stone columns and footings carry walls and arches of fired brick. The arches were re-erected from original material during the German–Jordanian project of 2009–2014.
Walk through the arches into the hall and look back towards the courtyard and gate: the view lines up along the whole length of the palace.
From 2009 to 2014 the Department of Antiquities, TU Berlin and the Museum für Islamische Kunst documented the whole site, recorded about 5,500 inscriptions and graffiti, re-erected the arches, repaired 150 m of the west wall and installed visitor information.
The palace was handed back to the Department of Antiquities on 18 May 2014.
1 / 9At the end of the hall lay the throne room, with three apses (a triconch) under a brick vault and dome. On either side, four barrel-vaulted residential suites (bayts) were laid out for the caliph’s household.
Look at the brick vaults and the stairs and doorways of the suites. Concealed air ducts have been noted in the walls, probably for ventilation.
No building inscription survives. The attribution to al-Walid II (r. 743–744) is the scholarly consensus, supported by a brick with the name of Sulayman ibn Kaysan, active around 730–750; some scholars have argued for Yazid II instead.
Work stopped when al-Walid II was murdered in 744. The palace was probably damaged by the earthquake of 749, and recent research found a short later occupation of about fifty years.
1 / 8Walk along part of the outer wall. It runs 144 m on each side, 1.7 m thick, with 25 towers: four round towers at the corners and mostly semicircular ones along the sides. All are solid except four that held latrines.
The walls stand 3–5.5 m high: stone below, orange fired brick above. In the long evening light the brick glows warm against the sky.
Mushatta was begun around AD 743–744, probably for the caliph al-Walid II, and abandoned unfinished when he was killed. Twelve centuries later, its most famous wall travelled to Berlin.
ProfileQasr Al-Mushatta: the full storyHistory, architecture, the timeline and the story of the façade in Berlin. About 3 min read.Read the profile →Qasr Al-Mushatta lies just north of the airport’s north runway and is reached by a road round the airport perimeter, with security checkpoints. It is close to Amman, but you need your own car or a taxi.
Opening hours and prices checked October 2026. Spotted a change? Let us know
What you’ll find at Qasr Al-Mushatta
Not on site: visitor centre, ticket office, toilets, museum, guide available, food & drinks, hotels, market / shop · Access: no 4x4 needed
Spring and autumn are the most comfortable. There is almost no shade on the site.
Services are limited out in the desert.
Quick answers before you set off.
It is listed in the Jordan Pass, but at present (2026) entry is free for everyone.
Yes. It’s always good to carry your passport while travelling in Jordan, and the road to the palace passes airport security checkpoints.
About three quarters of the carved south façade is in Berlin. The Pergamonmuseum, where it is displayed, is due to reopen its north wing on 4 June 2027.
No. Work stopped when al-Walid II was killed in AD 744, and only the central part of the enclosure was ever built.
Yes. It is a natural first stop on a desert-castles day, and our Best of Desert Castles tour starts here.
Comfortable, closed shoes for uneven ground, and light clothing that covers your shoulders and knees, which is respectful in rural Jordan and protects you from the sun.
Mushatta is close to Amman and makes a natural first stop on a desert-castles day. Drive times are from Qasr Al-Mushatta.
The tour is just for you: your own vehicle and driver, hotel pickup in Amman, entry tickets included, and one fixed price for up to three travellers.
from$150per group (1–3) · 105 JOD
Step into the fascinating world of the early Islamic period on this private full-day journey to Jordan’s remarkable Desert Castles. Scattered across the eastern desert, these mysterious complexes date largely to the 8th century and reflect the artistic and architectural brilliance of the Umayyad era.
Panoramas, walk-throughs, photos and stories about this site.
360°360° panoramaQasr Al-Mushatta: 360° PanoramaPhoto albumQasr Al-Mushatta: The Unfinished Winter Palace in PhotosProfileQasr Al-Mushatta: history & architecture
