Qasr Usaykhim
A small basalt fort on a volcanic hill, with views over the Black Desert
Built3rd–early 4th c. AD
FortAbout 23 × 23 m
Location14 km NE of Azraq
Access300 m from the road
Introduction
A lookout of black basalt, alone on top of its hill.
Qasr Usaykhim sits on the summit of a small volcanic cone north-east of Azraq, with the lava fields of the Black Desert all around. It is a small square fort of dark basalt, about 23 m a side, with rooms around a central courtyard. Several basalt arches that once carried the stone roofs of its rooms still stand.
Archaeologists think it was a Roman outpost of the 3rd or early 4th century AD, watching the approaches to the Azraq oasis, and that it was used again in the 6th–7th centuries. It has never been excavated. Come for the climb, the arches and one of the widest views in the Eastern Desert.
Best timeMar–Apr · Oct–Nov
Time needed30 min
TicketFree
From Amman125 km · 2 hr
Combine withQasr Azraq · 30 min
Google rating4.7 · Reviews
Highlights · Fort on a hill
Arches above the lava fields
A small Roman fort, its basalt arches and the view
Usaykhim is small and ruined, but it is one of the most rewarding stops near Azraq. The arches, the basalt walls and the view over the oasis are the reasons to climb.
01 / 0401 · Architecture
Basalt arches
The arches
Arches of wedge-shaped basalt blocks once carried the stone roofs of the rooms. Several still stand against the sky.
Look closely
How the stones lock together without mortar.
1 of 4
Room by room
What to see
Four stops: the climb, the walls and courtyard, the arches and the view from the top. Pick a stop to see what to look for.
1 / 401 · Getting up
Climb the hill
The fort stands on the highest point of a short basalt ridge. A new paved road from Highway 40 passes the foot of the hill. From there it is about 300 m up to the fort: walk up the loose stones, or drive by 4x4, or by normal car in dry weather.
The hill is a landmark for kilometres around, which is exactly why the Romans built here.
Volcanic coneSteep pathLoose stones
Look for
- The fort’s outline on the skyline
- Lava boulders on the slope
- Wadi Usaykhim at the foot of the hill
Dig deeperOlder traces
Prehistoric flints are scattered on and around the hill. A small quarry on the slope shows diagonal tool marks of a Nabataean style, and surface pottery of the 1st century AD has been found. One suggestion is that a Nabataean farmstead stood here before the fort, but this is not proven.
A dam near the fort provides evidence of water management in this arid landscape.
1 / 902 · Walls and courtyard
Walk round the fort
The fort is roughly square, about 23 m a side. Rooms with arched roofs lined all four sides of a central courtyard, and their back walls formed the outer wall. No towers or inscriptions have been found.
The walls are about 1 m thick, built of dressed basalt with a rubble core and very little mortar, like the other Roman buildings in the Azraq area.
23 × 23 mRooms round a courtyardBasaltNever excavated
Look for
- The rubble core inside broken walls
- Doorways into the rooms
- The corners of the fort
Dig deeperA Roman outpost
Surface pottery collected in 1976 dates mostly from the late Roman period (AD 193–324), with some early Roman and some 6th–7th century sherds. Archaeologists read this as a Roman outpost of the 3rd or early 4th century AD, used again in the Byzantine period.
Who garrisoned it is unknown: there is no inscription, and the site has never been excavated.
1 / 803 · Roofs of stone
Find the arches
With almost no wood in the basalt desert, builders roofed rooms with stone. Arches of wedge-shaped basalt blocks spanned each room, and long basalt slabs were laid across them.
Several of these room arches still stand, the most photographed feature of the fort. Please don’t climb on them: they are held up only by their own weight.
Room archesStone roofsNo timber
Look for
- Wedge-shaped stones in each arch
- Slots where the roof slabs rested
- The arches framing the desert beyond
1 / 604 · From the top
Look out over the oasis
From the summit you see the Azraq basin to the south-west and the dark lava fields of the Black Desert all round, only partly hidden to the north-west by a neighbouring hill.
This was the point of the fort: from here a small garrison could watch the routes into the Azraq oasis and keep Qasr Azraq in sight.
Near 360° viewAzraq oasisBlack Desert
Look for
- The Azraq basin to the south-west
- Tracks across the lava plain
- The neighbouring hills
History & significance
A Roman lookout above Azraq
Usaykhim was probably built as a small Roman outpost in the 3rd or early 4th century AD, part of the defences around the Azraq oasis, and was used again in the 6th–7th centuries.
- 1st c.Possible Nabataean farmstead on the hill
- 3rd–4th c.The Roman fort is built
- 6th–7th c.The fort is used again
- 1913Gertrude Bell visits
ProfileQasr Usaykhim: the full storyHistory, architecture, research and the timeline. About 2 min read.Read the profile →Plan your visit
Everything you need to know before you go
Qasr Usaykhim is north-east of Azraq. A new paved road from Highway 40 passes the hill, and from there it is about 300 m up to the fort, on foot, by 4x4 or, in dry weather, by normal car.
Good to know: the site is unstaffed and unsigned, with no facilities and no shade. The climb is steep and the stones are loose, so wear proper shoes.
Opening hoursOpen accessUnstaffed site · visit in daylight
Entry ticketFreeNo ticket office
Time to visit30 minIncluding the short climb
From Amman125 kmAbout 2 hours via Highway 40 and Azraq
LocationNorth-east of Azraq31.9460° N, 36.9524° EGet directions
Opening hours and prices checked October 2026. Spotted a change? Let us know
On site
What you’ll find at Qasr Usaykhim
- Viewpoint
Not on site: visitor centre, ticket office, toilets, designated parking, museum, guide, food & drinks, market / shop, hotels
Access: no 4x4 needed
When to go
Spring and autumn are best. In summer the black basalt holds the heat and there is no shade on the hill.
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BestGood, cooler or warmVery hot
Tip: come in the late afternoon, when the low sun lights the arches and the lava fields turn deep brown.
Before you go
Services are limited out in the desert.
- Water and snacksShops and restaurants in Azraq
- Sun hat and sunscreenVery little shade outside
- Comfortable shoesUneven, stony ground
- Cash in Jordanian dinarsFor small purchases
- Toilet paperBring your own, just in case
Common questions
Quick answers before you set off.
Do I need a 4x4?
No. A new paved road passes the hill. The last 300 m up to the fort can be walked, or driven by 4x4, or by normal car in dry weather.
Is there an entrance fee?
No. The site is unstaffed and free to visit.
How hard is the climb?
It is only about 300 m from the road, but steep, on loose basalt stones. Wear proper shoes.
Who built the fort?
Probably the Roman army, in the 3rd or early 4th century AD. There is no inscription, and the site has never been excavated.
Can I visit it on a tour?
Yes. Qasr Usaykhim is a stop on our Black Desert, Azraq Oasis & Desert Castles tour.
What should I wear?
Comfortable, closed shoes for uneven ground, and light clothing that covers your shoulders and knees, which is respectful in rural Jordan and protects you from the sun.
Combine with
Usaykhim is a short drive from Azraq, the hub of the Eastern Desert. Drive times are from Qasr Usaykhim.
Private tours
A private day tour that includes Qasr Usaykhim
The tour is just for you: your own vehicle and driver, hotel pickup in Amman, entry tickets included, and one fixed price for up to three travellers.
Private: only your group
Your own vehicle & driver
Hotel pick-up in Amman
Entry tickets included
from$170per group (1–3) · 120 JOD
Tour 1 · Full day · Private
Black Desert, Azraq Oasis & Desert Castles Full-Day Tour
Journey deep into Jordan’s eastern desert on this private full-day adventure that combines remarkable history with unique desert landscapes. Scattered across the region are the mysterious Umayyad Desert Castles—impressive complexes dating back to the 8th century that once served as palaces, caravan stations, and administrative centres during the early Islamic period.
HistoryArchitectureNatureCultureArt5 Desert Castles
Duration7–8 hr
Pick-up8 or 9 AM
Group1–3, private
Included
- Private luxury transfer
- Entrance fees
- Bottled water, soft drinks, snacks
- Coffee/tea (on request)
- WiFi, Phone charger
Not included
- Professional on-site (local) guide
- Personal expenses
- Lunch
CancellationFull refund if you cancel at least 24 hours before the start. No refunds or changes within 24 hours.
Pick-upFrom your hotel lobby or home in Amman, 5 minutes before your chosen start time.
BringComfortable shoes, sun hat, sunblock and sunglasses. Tours run in English.
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