Sometimes you simply need a change of scenery. Living in Amman, it is easy to forget that Jordan has a coastline, even if it is only about 27 kilometres long. After several busy weeks, we decided to spend two days in Aqaba with our two children, looking for a combination of relaxation, good food, and a little sightseeing.
Choosing Between Tala Bay, Ayla and Downtown Aqaba
Planning the trip was surprisingly difficult because Aqaba offers three very different experiences.
Downtown Aqaba is the most affordable option and puts you within walking distance of restaurants, markets, historical sites, and the marina. However, the public beaches are often crowded, parking can be challenging, and the atmosphere feels much busier.
Ayla offers beautiful modern architecture, luxury hotels, landscaped lagoons, and excellent restaurants. It feels elegant and contemporary, but many of its attractions are spread across the development, and the atmosphere is more urban than seaside.
In the end, we chose Tala Bay, located about 15 minutes south of Aqaba. For a family with teenagers, it ticked all the boxes. The private beach is clean and well maintained, access to the Red Sea is effortless, there are several swimming pools to choose from, and the entire resort feels relaxed and noticeably less crowded than downtown. Everything is within easy walking distance, making it perfect for a short family holiday.
An Easy Drive from Amman
The drive from Amman to Aqaba is quite easy. The Desert Highway is in good condition, and the journey takes about four and a half hours without rushing.
We usually stop at one of the Manaseer gas stations every couple of hours. They are clean, have good coffee and bathrooms (not so clean, though).
About an hour away from Amman, we stopped at the Ottoman Hajj Fort in Qatrana. Although not a large attraction, it is an interesting piece of Jordan’s history. Built to protect pilgrims travelling between Damascus and Mecca, the restored fort provides a pleasant opportunity to stretch your legs before continuing south through the desert.
First Impressions of Tala Bay
The contrast between the empty desert highway and Tala Bay is striking. As soon as we entered the resort, palm trees replaced desert shrubs, colourful flowers lined the roads, and the deep blue waters of the Red Sea appeared beyond the marina.
Check-in was quick, and within minutes the kids were already asking which swimming pool we should visit first.
The entire resort feels calm and spacious. Unlike many busy beach destinations, nothing seemed overcrowded.
We intentionally planned very little for our first afternoon.
The private beach became our favourite place almost immediately. The water was crystal clear, warm, and surprisingly calm. Even simply floating while watching the mountains of Egypt and Saudi Arabia across the Gulf of Aqaba was incredibly relaxing.
Whenever the children wanted a change, one of the resort’s several swimming pools was only a short walk away. Some pools were lively with families, while others offered quieter corners for reading or simply enjoying the sunshine.
Water sports are available throughout the resort, including paddleboarding, kayaking, diving, snorkelling, and boat excursions. Even if you choose not to participate, it is enjoyable watching colourful parasails and jet skis crossing the bay throughout the day.
Dinner at Suzana Restaurant
For our first evening, we stayed within the resort and chose Suzana Restaurant.
The relaxed outdoor seating overlooking the marina created a pleasant atmosphere after a day in the sun. The menu offered a good mix of Jordanian favourites alongside international dishes, making it easy to satisfy everyone’s tastes. Service was friendly, portions were generous, and it was an enjoyable way to end our first day.
The Kids Discovered the Resort on Scooters
One unexpected highlight was renting electric scooters.
Our two teenagers spent over an hour happily exploring every corner of Tala Bay, riding along the marina, discovering hidden walkways, and returning excited each time they found another viewpoint overlooking the sea.
Since vehicle traffic inside the resort is minimal, parents can relax while still keeping an eye on their children.
Exploring Aqaba on Day Two
After breakfast, we drove into Aqaba to explore some of the city’s historical attractions.
Our first stop was the Aqaba Aquarium, a compact but enjoyable introduction to the marine life of the Red Sea. The displays are not enormous, but they provide an excellent overview of the colourful fish and coral ecosystems that make Aqaba famous among divers.
Next, we visited Aqaba Fort, one of Jordan’s most important coastal landmarks. Walking through its stone walls while overlooking the harbour offers an interesting glimpse into centuries of regional history.
Just a short distance away stands the Sharif Hussein House Museum, where exhibitions help explain the role of Aqaba during the Great Arab Revolt. It is a worthwhile stop for anyone interested in Jordan’s modern history.
Before lunch, we explored the archaeological remains of the Ancient Islamic City of Ayla. Wandering through the excavated streets, gates, and foundations was fascinating, especially knowing this was one of the earliest purpose-built Islamic cities established after the Muslim conquest of the region.
Cooling Off at Saraya Aqaba Waterpark
The afternoon belonged entirely to the kids.
Saraya Aqaba Waterpark turned out to be one of the highlights of the trip. With numerous slides, wave pools, lazy rivers, and attractions suitable for all ages, both teenagers stayed busy for hours while we enjoyed a slower pace around the quieter pools.
After several hours under the Jordanian sun, everyone agreed it had been worth the visit.
Dinner in Aqaba and a Sunset Cruise
For dinner, we headed into Aqaba rather than returning immediately to Tala Bay.
We chose Neptune Restaurant, and it ended up being our favourite meal of the trip. The seafood was exceptionally fresh, the service was excellent, and the overall quality surpassed what we had experienced at the resort restaurants. If you enjoy seafood, it is well worth making the short drive from Tala Bay.
To finish the evening, we joined a sunset cruise departing from Aqaba Marina. As the sun slowly disappeared behind the Sinai Mountains, the entire Gulf of Aqaba turned shades of orange, pink, and purple. Watching the lights of Jordan, Israel, Egypt, and Saudi Arabia gradually appear around the bay was a memorable way to end our holiday.
We returned to Tala Bay for one final overnight stay.
Is Aqaba Worth Visiting?
If you live in Amman, absolutely.
Aqaba is close enough for a relaxing weekend, yet different enough to feel like a proper holiday. Tala Bay, in particular, offers an easy escape with excellent beaches, comfortable resorts, and plenty to keep teenagers entertained without requiring a packed itinerary.
If you are visiting Jordan from abroad with limited time, my answer is a little different.
Jordan offers several destinations that are simply more unique. Petra is one of the world’s greatest archaeological wonders, Wadi Rum provides landscapes unlike almost anywhere else on Earth, and Jerash ranks among the best-preserved Roman cities outside Italy. Given a choice, I would recommend prioritising those experiences before spending time in Aqaba.
That said, Aqaba becomes an excellent addition if you have extra days or want to relax after exploring Jordan’s deserts and ancient cities.
Tips for Families
- Stay in Tala Bay if your priority is relaxation, private beaches, and swimming pools.
- Visit Aqaba’s historical sites early in the morning to avoid the midday heat.
- Plan at least one evening meal in downtown Aqaba, where the seafood is generally better than at the resort restaurants.
- Bring water shoes if you plan to swim in the Red Sea, as some areas have coral and rocky seabeds.
- If travelling from Amman, allow extra time to stop at Qatrana Fort and enjoy a leisurely coffee break along the Desert Highway.
- Even a short two-day trip feels surprisingly refreshing and is one of the few weekend escapes available from Amman.
