Wadi Rum had been on our family list for a long time. With two teenagers, we wanted an overnight trip that would feel like a real adventure, but without giving up every comfort. The result was one of those family trips that stays in everyone’s memory: red sand, enormous mountains, a bumpy jeep ride, a traditional dinner cooked beneath the ground, and a night sky that felt impossibly close.
Choosing Where to Stay in Wadi Rum
Planning a stay in Wadi Rum is not as simple as picking a hotel. There are small camps and large camps, camps inside the protected area and camps just outside it, traditional Bedouin tents and more luxurious options with air conditioning and private bathrooms.
At first, the smaller camps appealed to us. Najd Luxury Camp has only five tents, which gives it a calm, personal feeling. It is also easy to reach by normal car, as it is located outside the protected area. For a family, the large tent was a real advantage: there was enough space for all four of us, rather than feeling squeezed into one room.
But after the visit, my advice would be to prioritise a camp inside the Wadi Rum Protected Area if possible. Being deeper in the desert changes the whole experience. The landscape becomes more dramatic, the sand redder, and the mountains more sculpted. It is the difference between visiting Wadi Rum and feeling fully surrounded by it.
Whatever camp you choose, I would strongly recommend booking one with a private bathroom and genuinely strong air conditioning. Desert tents can become extremely hot during the day, and comfort matters more than you might expect after hours in the sun. It is also worth choosing a package that includes breakfast and dinner, since dining options are limited once you are at the camp.
The Drive from Amman to Wadi Rum
The drive from Amman to Wadi Rum was straightforward and much easier than it sounds on a map. We followed the Desert Highway south, with the landscape gradually becoming wider, flatter and drier.
We made a few practical stops at Manaseer gas stations along the way. They are convenient for coffee, bathrooms, snacks and a quick break from driving. With teenagers, this small detail helps more than one might think. A good coffee for the adults and something cold to drink for the kids made the journey feel relaxed rather than long.
Our other stop was Qatrana Ottoman Hajj Fort. It is easy to pass without noticing, but it is worth a short visit. The fort once served pilgrims travelling the Hajj route, and standing there gave us a reminder that this desert road has been used for centuries. It was a small stop, but it added history to a journey that was otherwise mostly about open road and changing scenery.
First Impressions of Wadi Rum
Nothing really prepares you for the first view of Wadi Rum.
As we approached, the desert began to rise around us in huge sandstone formations. The mountains looked too sharply shaped to be real, almost like a film set. Red sand stretched into the distance, and the silence felt completely different from Amman. There were no busy streets, no traffic, no constant background noise. Just wind, rock and space.
Our two kids immediately understood why people compare Wadi Rum to Mars. The landscape has that strange, cinematic quality: red earth, vast open plains and mountains that appear to have been carved by another planet.
What to Do in Wadi Rum
Wadi Rum is not a place to visit only for the views. The desert is best experienced by moving through it.
A jeep tour is the easiest and most exciting way to see the main sites, especially if you only have one night. Camel rides offer a slower and more traditional experience, while hiking is ideal for visitors who want to spend more time exploring canyons, arches and viewpoints on foot. And after sunset, stargazing is an essential part of the experience.
For our family, the jeep tour was the highlight. It was adventurous enough for our teenagers, but not difficult or exhausting. We had time to climb, walk, take photos and simply look around without feeling rushed.
Our Jeep Tour with Wild Wadi Rum
We booked a two-hour jeep tour with Wild Wadi Rum, and it was exactly what we wanted: friendly, authentic and better value than the activity prices offered through the camp.
Our first stop was Lawrence’s Spring, a small green patch against the dry rocks. The contrast was striking. We climbed a short way up for the view, looking across the desert and watching camels move slowly below.
We also visited the Nabatean Temple near Wadi Rum Village. It is not as grand as Petra, of course, but that is part of its charm. Standing among the remains, surrounded by desert cliffs, made us think about how long this landscape has been part of trade routes, Bedouin life and ancient history.
Khazali Canyon was another memorable stop. The narrow passage between the rocks offered shade from the sun, and we could see ancient inscriptions carved into the sandstone. Our kids enjoyed walking into the canyon and imagining how people had travelled through this landscape long before roads and camps existed.
Then came Little Rock Arch, where the teenagers were quick to climb up for photos. It is one of those classic Wadi Rum moments: a small scramble, a wide view and red desert in every direction.
The sand dunes were perhaps the most fun. We climbed up slowly, sinking into the soft sand with every step, then ran down like crazy, without “breaks”. It was simple, but it became one of the funniest moments of the day.
Dinner at Najd Luxury Camp
Back at Najd Luxury Camp, dinner was waiting for us. The food was one of the strongest parts of our stay.
We were introduced to zarb, the traditional Bedouin method of cooking food underground. Meat and vegetables are placed in a metal container, lowered into a pit and covered with sand and hot coals. When it is uncovered, the smell alone makes everyone gather around.
The dinner was generous, warm and full of flavour. After a day in the desert, sitting together over rice, vegetables, meat and salads felt exactly right. Breakfast the following morning was also excellent, with enough choice to keep the whole family happy before the drive back.
Stargazing from Our Tent
The best part of the night was simply staring at the night sky through the large window of our tent.
There was no need for a special observatory or organised activity. Away from city lights, the sky was full of stars. The Milky Way was visible, and the darkness made the desert feel even larger.
Our teenagers, who are normally never far from a screen, enjoyed the stargazing longer than expected. There is something about Wadi Rum at night that slows everyone down. No schedule, no noise, no distractions. Just stars above the desert.
A Final Stop at Wadi Rum Train Station
The next morning, after breakfast, we began the drive back towards Amman. Before leaving the area, we stopped at Wadi Rum train station.
The old Hejaz Railway station is a small but worthwhile addition to a Wadi Rum trip. It connects the desert to the wider history of the region, especially the Ottoman period and the Arab Revolt. It did not take long to visit, but it gave us one final sense of how much history sits beneath this dramatic landscape.
Is Wadi Rum Worth Visiting?
Wadi Rum is unlike anywhere else in Jordan, and honestly, unlike many places in the world. Petra is extraordinary because of what people carved into stone. Wadi Rum is extraordinary because nature did the carving. The setting is stunning, Mars-like and vast enough to make everyday life feel very far away.
For a family, it offers the right mix of adventure and comfort. Our kids had a real desert experience without being bored, and we had enough comfort to enjoy it properly.
Tips for Families Visiting Wadi Rum
Book a camp inside the Wadi Rum Protected Area for a more memorable, immersive desert setting.
Choose a camp package with breakfast and dinner included.
Prioritise strong air conditioning and a private bathroom, especially if visiting in warmer months.
Book a jeep tour with Wild Wadi Rum for a more authentic experience and better prices than many camp-arranged activities.
Ask for the full cost of jeep tours, camel rides and other activities before booking, as these can add significantly to the total price.
Plan outdoor activities for early morning or late afternoon, when the desert is more comfortable.
Combine Wadi Rum with Petra and Aqaba for an excellent southern Jordan itinerary: Petra for history, Wadi Rum for desert adventure and Aqaba for time by the Red Sea.
