The Azraq Wetland Reserve is a rare haven of life nestled in Jordan’s arid Eastern Desert. Located near the town of Azraq and the storied Azraq Castle, this oasis once teemed with biodiversity, offering refuge to countless aquatic and terrestrial species. Of particular note is the Azraq Killifish, Jordan’s only true endemic vertebrate, a testament to the reserve’s ecological importance.
The Reserve, established by the RSCN in 1978, once played a key role as a migratory waypoint on the African-Eurasian flyway. Unfortunately, the oasis suffered a devastating blow in 1992 when overpumping of its natural springs for urban water supply caused them to dry up. The loss was stark and swift, with most migratory birds abandoning the area. Today, artificial springs sustain what remains, allowing visitors to glimpse a fragment of its former splendour.
A stroll along the 1.5km Marsh Trail offers a poignant window into the wetland’s past glory. Winding through paths trodden by water buffalo, this trail allows explorers to experience the sights and sounds of this extraordinary place. With binoculars in hand, visitors can observe ducks squabbling among reed beds from a bird hide or watch over the Shishan Springs, historically the lifeblood of the wetlands. The thick reeds, rustling in the wind, create a tranquil illusion that almost belies the harsh desert environment nearby.
Adding historical intrigue, visitors may encounter the remains of a basalt wall from the Umayyad period, part of a once grand aqueduct stretching 4 km. Though its exact purpose remains uncertain, theories suggest it was a sophisticated system for water control and storage, potentially separating fresh and saltwater.
Intricately carved basalt stones found nearby depict animals and plants that flourished here long ago, offering a glimpse into Azraq’s verdant history.
While less than a fraction of the original wetland remains, the reserve continues to support approximately 300 bird species during winter migrations from Europe to Africa. These include raptors, warblers, eagles, and plovers, with the winter months and early spring offering the best birdwatching opportunities. Occasionally, water buffalo can still be seen wallowing in the marshes, and nocturnal visitors might glimpse jackals or gerbils. However, the survival of this delicate ecosystem remains precarious, with water levels still heavily impacted by ongoing overpumping.
The RSCN launched a rescue operation in 1994 with international backing, striving to restore depleted wetland areas and increase water levels by 10%. Progress has been slow due to resource limitations and the challenges of wetland management, but their efforts have borne some fruit. Birds that once defined Azraq are beginning to return, hinting at the reserve’s potential resurgence. A notable success came in 2017 with the restoration of a new basin, known as the Swiss Pond, funded by international supporters. Water flowed back into the land, offering a glimmer of hope for this beleaguered paradise.
Though the Azraq Wetland Reserve remains a shadow of what it once was, its resilience showcases the power of conservation. This oasis, at the heart of the desert, continues to inspire and remind us of the urgent need to protect the delicate balance of nature for generations to come.
The Azraq Wetland Reserve stands as a poignant reminder of a once-thriving natural haven that existed 250,000 years ago. Stretching across an area larger than modern-day Lebanon, the vast Azraq reservoir was an ecological oasis, home to an extraordinary array of wildlife. From majestic elephants and agile cheetahs to imposing hippos, its waters and surrounding landscapes teemed with life. The wetlands were also an essential crossroads for civilisation, serving as a hub for human trade routes and bird migrations. Camel caravans loaded with fragrant spices and healing herbs traversed its shores, travelling between Arabia, Mesopotamia, and Syria. For countless generations, millions of migrating birds paused their journeys between Africa and Europe to rest and feed.
However, the allure of Azraq’s abundant resources brought challenges. Beginning in the 1960s, water from this vital ecosystem was diverted to meet the burgeoning needs of Amman’s growing population. Recognising its importance, the Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature (RSCN) designated Azraq as a wetland reserve in 1978. Despite this effort, by 1992 the once-gushing springs had dried up, their aquifers depleted. The water buffaloes that once waded through these waters vanished entirely, and the steady stream of migratory birds rerouted their paths, favouring places like the Sea of Galilee instead.
Today, the Azraq wetlands face what has been described as an “ecological collapse.” The RSCN continues its relentless efforts to preserve what remains of this critical habitat. The 10,000,000 cubic metres of water supplied annually by Jordan’s Ministry of Water has restored only 10% of Azraq’s original size. The wetlands, which in 1967 hosted 347,000 migrating birds, saw this number dwindle to just 1,200 by the year 2000.
