Nestled in the rugged landscapes of southern Jordan, the Sela archaeological site stands as a testament to the region’s rich and diverse history. Often overshadowed by the more famous Petra, Sela is a hidden gem that offers a unique glimpse into the ancient civilisations that once thrived in this part of the world. With its dramatic cliffs, intricate carvings, and enigmatic ruins, Sela is a site of immense historical and cultural significance, waiting to be explored and understood.
A Historical Overview
Sela, which means “rock” in Hebrew, is aptly named for its striking location atop a steep sandstone mountain. The site is believed to have been inhabited as early as the Iron Age, with evidence of Edomite, Nabataean, and Roman influences. The Edomites, a Semitic people who flourished in the region during the first millennium BCE, are thought to have been the first to settle in Sela. They carved out a fortress and sanctuary from the rock, leaving behind a legacy of impressive stone structures and inscriptions.
The Nabataeans, renowned for their architectural prowess and the creation of Petra, also left their mark on Sela. They expanded the site, adding temples, tombs, and water management systems that showcase their ingenuity and adaptability to the arid environment. Later, during the Roman period, Sela continued to be an important strategic and religious centre, with further modifications and additions to its structures.
Architectural Marvels
One of the most striking features of Sela is its rock-cut architecture. The site is dominated by a massive sandstone outcrop, which has been meticulously carved to create a series of chambers, staircases, and altars. The most prominent structure is the high place, or sanctuary, located at the summit of the mountain. This sacred space, believed to have been used for religious rituals, offers breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape and provides a sense of the spiritual significance that Sela held for its ancient inhabitants.
The water management systems at Sela are another testament to the ingenuity of its builders. The Nabataeans, in particular, were masters of hydrology, and their expertise is evident in the network of cisterns, channels, and reservoirs that were carved into the rock. These systems allowed the inhabitants to collect and store rainwater, ensuring a reliable water supply in an otherwise harsh and arid environment.
Inscriptions and Artifacts
One of Sela’s standout features is the Nabonidus inscription, attributed to the Babylonian king Nabonidus. The inscription, found on a rock face at the site, provides a rare glimpse into Babylonian influence and their interactions with this region. This archaeological artefact is not only a must-see site but also a key piece in the puzzle of Sela’s rich history.
In addition, numerous artefacts have been discovered at Sela, including pottery, coins, and tools. These objects offer a glimpse into the daily lives of the people who inhabited the site, from their domestic activities to their trade connections with distant lands.
The Significance of Sela
Sela’s strategic location, perched high above the surrounding plains, made it an important defensive stronghold throughout its history. Its commanding position allowed its inhabitants to monitor and control the trade routes that passed through the region, connecting the Arabian Peninsula with the Mediterranean world. This strategic importance, combined with its religious significance, made Sela a key centre of power and influence in ancient times.
Sela is not just a footnote in history but a site that finds mention in the Bible. Found in the Old Testament, it is referenced in multiple passages, including Isaiah 16:1, where it is described as a place of refuge. Later, the biblical account of King Amaziah of Judah highlights his victory over the Edomites at Sela before renaming it Joktheel. These biblical references underscore Sela’s importance as a geographic and cultural landmark in the ancient world.
Today, Sela is a site of great archaeological and cultural value. It provides a window into the past, offering insights into the lives and achievements of the Edomites, Nabataeans, and Romans who once called this place home. As archaeologists continue to uncover the secrets of Sela, the site promises to reveal even more about the complex and interconnected history of the region.
Visiting Sela
For those interested in exploring the rich history of Jordan, a visit to Sela is a must. The site’s dramatic setting, combined with its fascinating ruins and inscriptions, makes it a captivating destination for history enthusiasts and adventure seekers. While Sela may not have the same level of fame as Petra, its unique charm and historical significance make it a worthy addition to any itinerary.
Sela’s journey begins at the Visitor’s Centre in As Sala, a beautifully restored Ottoman heritage village situated approximately 200 kilometres (about a 3-hour drive) from Amman via the Desert Highway. This centre serves as a perfect starting point to rest, gather your bearings, and obtain further information about the site. Visitors are encouraged to engage a local guide to ensure no key landmarks are missed and to help navigate the area efficiently.
From the Visitor’s Centre, it is advisable to drive down the steep hill before commencing the hike to Sela Castle, which is approximately 1 kilometre and of a demanding nature. This approach allows you to conserve energy for the trek. However, be mindful that the descent is particularly steep and the road is exceptionally narrow—exercise caution while driving through this section.
